Our Italian friends took us on a tour of Christmas in downtown Naples!  We visited a nativity museum where we heard interesting stories of Naples’ history, enjoyed pizza portafolgio (folded pizza) and coppa di mare (fish cup), and we learned a lot about Naples lore and traditions.  We walked through the packed (which, according to our friends, were not very busy at all!) alleyway of Via San Gregorio Armeno (Americans call it Christmas Alley), a very popular tourist destination where you can find nativity pieces and other traditional Naples Christmas gifts, and we also visited the Duomo di San Gennaro (a very important Naples cathedral).  Thank you, again, friends, for teaching us about Neopolitan traditions.